SOUTH AFRICA: South African fashion brand MaXhosa Africa opened Paris Women’s Fashion Week on Monday with a new collection full of bright knitwear. The clothes were made to celebrate African crafts and unity.
MaXhosa founder Laduma Ngxokolo showed 54 outfits at his first Paris Fashion Week show. One outfit showed the recent change to the United Nations’ official map, which now gives a more accurate picture of Africa’s size.
“I feel honoured to be included. I’ve worked for 16 years to reach this point,” 39-year-old Ngxokolo told AFP about joining one of the world’s best-known fashion events.
His Spring-Summer 2027 collection was about unity among African people. One wool dress had knitted tassels with the names of African countries.
Another black-and-grey outfit had a large outline of Africa on the front and maps of other parts of the world on the back and sleeves. It referred to the recent update to the United Nations’ official map.
“We chose to be among the first to show the African continent to the world,” said Ngxokolo, who is based in Johannesburg.
The show took place at the South African ambassador’s home. Afro-soul singer Sjava performed live, and Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru provided glasses and accessories made from reused waste.
Ngxokolo started MaXhosa Africa in 2010. The name refers to South Africa’s Xhosa people. The company now employs about 300 people, has eight stores and makes all its knitwear in two factories in Johannesburg and East London.
Michelle Obama and Beyoncé are among its fans.
“I grew up looking at brands such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton,” Ngxokolo told reporters backstage. “But there was no brand known for being proudly made in Africa.”
“About 90 percent of our products are made in our own factories.”
A rare honour
Very few African designers have been invited to show at Paris Fashion Week. The event’s schedule is set by France’s Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM).
The federation has been inviting more new brands from around the world to join major French fashion houses such as Saint Laurent, Christian Dior and Chanel.
Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi made history in January 2020 as the first designer from sub-Saharan Africa to join the official Haute Couture schedule.
Other designers of African heritage have also become well known in Europe and the United States. They include the late Virgil Abloh, who led Louis Vuitton’s menswear team, former Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing, and Emeric Tchatchoua, founder of Paris brand 3.Paradis.
“We still feel that Africa is not represented enough, and more chances should be offered,” Ngxokolo told AFP. “But we also need to take the fashion business seriously.”
“I believe in professionalism, good quality and high standards in everything we do,” he added.
Changes ahead
A total of 67 shows are planned for the 2027 Spring-Summer Women’s Fashion Week. Many other brands will present their designs at private events around Paris.
Major fashion houses Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will show their new collections on Tuesday.
It could be the last show for Saint Laurent’s Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello. He has helped the brand succeed for the past 10 years, but reports say he may leave.
If he does leave, he may not be the only designer to go. Fashion companies are looking for ways to improve sales as luxury brands face a difficult business climate.
At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli may be at risk after failing to keep sales at the same level as his predecessor, Demna, according to fashion blog Miss Tweed.
At Chloé, artistic director Chemena Kamali, who started in 2023, may also be pushed out because of low profits, according to news site Glitz.
Other shows on Monday included Canadian trendsetters Matières Fécales, Julie Kegels, Weinsanto and Hodakova.
Reported By: Showbiz Reporter I Africa
